constant in opal

Surf comp at Bondi

2010-03-13T20:02:00.001+11:00

Man, how cool was it to watch Kelly Slater ripping aerials on my home break? What a treat...!

Postcard from Sydney

2010-03-13T19:57:00.001+11:00

What an impossibly beautiful city. I never tire of it...

A tourist in my own town

2010-03-13T19:53:00.003+11:00

A few snaps taken en route to Manly.

In the campo

2010-03-13T19:49:00.002+11:00

Out and about around Ronda.

The view from the summit...

2010-03-13T19:41:00.003+11:00

Ronda nestles in the Serrania to the North

Looking South down the Straights, across to the Rif Mountains of Morocco and the Pillars of Hercules, gateway of the ancient world...

East towards the Sierra Nevadas and Granada

West towards, well Cadiz I guess...

Back in the Sierras

2010-03-13T19:28:00.003+11:00

So, so good to be back in Andalucia. Hoping to pick up some scattered pieces in town, I found them in the mountains instead...

Total neglect...?

2010-03-13T19:26:00.000+11:00

OK, Tomas... just for you: a drastically belated update.

Bondi to Bronte Ocean Swim

2009-12-06T22:32:00.003+11:00

The Bondi to Bronte Ocean Swim sees 2000 entrants cover a distance of 2.5kms in around 30-90 minutes. Many entrants are members of surf life saving clubs around Sydney; particularly those of Bondi, Bronte & Coogee beaches.

Sculpture by the Sea

2009-11-14T17:16:00.003+11:00

It's that time of year...

Sculpture by the Sea is a popular annual event in Sydney and means guests to my apartment can't find parking for about a month. It's great to see so many punters interacting with art and enjoying a healthy day out...

Around Sydney...

2009-10-24T19:32:00.002+11:00

Some practice exercises for digital processing in black & white. The bridge should be familiar, the other photographs are of Five Ways, the 'village' centre of Paddington.

Dust storm hits Sydney

2009-09-24T19:22:00.001+10:00

This one made it onto the global news services (thanks FFM for the emails, you know who you are!). It was really intense just on the first morning, but dusty conditions persisted for the subsequent few days. I had flashbacks to my days in the dust season in Seoul.

No filters etc. The sky was most red at sunrise in Bondi - as you can see, the whole apartment was bathed in an intense red light. Spooky...

Salamander Bay

2009-08-16T19:27:00.001+10:00

Took off on a road trip to visit CBV & Leticia...

Salamander Bay is about 3 hour's drive north of Sydney.

A new dawn...

2009-08-15T13:10:00.002+10:00

One day after another, what a beautiful place. The morning jog between Bondi and Bronte/Coogee must be one of the world's most scenic. Combine that with the alternative morning routine: dawn surf => scooter to work => harbour views and, well, it's a great way to ride out the GFC.

Thoughts however are often with friends and colleagues in Frankfurt, the City and Spain, challenging times over there. Australia remains blissfully ignorant of the hardship elsewhere.

Sunrise at Icebergs

2009-08-14T19:37:00.008+10:00

'Icebergs' is a local club. Named for the winter-time users of the baths, a clubhouse has existed on the site since 1929. In addition to the club, the building contains a bar, cocktail lounge and Italian restaurant.

I spent several mornings over the few weeks before I bought my surfboard taking photographs of the sunrise. These golden dawns and the concentration involved with learning how to capture a sense of them assuage melancholy. The morning of this photograph was different...

One of the distinctive qualities of living in Ronda is the skies and encircling mountains: they play such a prominent role in everyday life, reflecting the seasons and climate. Even when it's raining, skies are tumultuous and dramatic; there is never just a grey blanket cast over the landscape.

In the autumn and winter, sunsets in the mountains feature a 'metallic' palette of grey, blue, lilac, gold and bronze. The skies are like tinted monochromes, beyond my ability to capture in photographs. The morning of the Icebergs photo had a similar cast to those Spanish sunsets, and this time I feel I caught it in the image.

I have a large print of the image on the wall of my apartment. I'm reminded of the great beauty of this place, but at the same time... ahhhh, I miss Ronda, Mel, the dackels: I miss my home so, so much.

Bondi Beachfront

2009-05-13T14:23:00.009+10:00

I hit town in time for a splendid Sydney winter; Bondi and the city generally welcoming me with open arms. I felt like a prodigal son, albeit mildly guilty that my ideal life would span both here and Spain.

On the other hand, I think the city will forgive me that.

In late news, that first one has become my first prize-winning photo. More importantly, the print sold for $850. One of those per day and I have a new occupation...

Valle del Tajo

2009-04-26T14:04:00.001+10:00

Sydney is great, but damn I miss Ronda. Hello to friends, special cheerio to Ronda Tortugas rugby team.

Laneways of Arcos de la Frontera

2009-04-25T14:14:00.000+10:00

Out-and-about with Melly in the Sierra de Grazalema.

Ronda via Puerta de San Miguel

2009-03-23T13:52:00.000+11:00

Not strictly accurate but who's splitting hairs...

Penitente

2009-03-19T13:20:00.003+11:00

So I guess I just hung out in Segovia Cathedral for a bit. They had chillout music playing and the air was cool and still. One didn't have to be a subscriber to appreciate the spaces in play, both architectural and contemplative.

I remember sitting there with the only sound being the rythmic scrape of a penitenta making inexorable circuits of the interior on her knees. I was sitting up in the apse, and she'd shuffle past me, head bowed and murmering, every fifteen minutes or so. I wondered what she was sweating about and who'd picked the CD.

I left feeling muted and chilled to the bone. The streets were empty in the late afternoon, the market was gone and the old town now seemed closed and unfriendly. I was glad to reach the touristy strip where a shrieking group of school kids banished my melancholia, if only to a measure.

Segovia's charm had been mysteriously dispelled. No longer the cheerful journeyman, I wandered back to Madrid in silence, feeling quite alone.

Let that be feedback to the architects...

Segovia

2009-03-16T12:59:00.002+11:00

I took a day trip to Segovia from Madrid (as one does). Highlight of the day, and the motivation for the expedition, to be honest, was the cochinillo asado - roasted suckling pig.

La dama de las catedrales españolas

2009-03-15T12:42:00.002+11:00

The 16th century Cathedral of Segovia. The statue is a 10th (hmm... 11th?) century Virgin & Child.

Around Madrid

2009-03-13T12:16:00.001+11:00

I was meant to be attending meetings but after rubber-necking the architecture and soaking up Madrid streetscapes I resigned myself to my touristic interest and ended up wandering the palace instead.

...ok, I was also rubber-necking the locals (brown plaid and boots at 1 o'clock).

Reina Sofia

2009-03-03T11:08:00.001+11:00

The clean modern lines; hard, shiny planar surfaces and boxy spaces out the back at Reina Sofia really caught the eye after an extended stint in the puebla blancas of the Serranía de Ronda. Noting that one doesn't really see these sort of light, airy spaces in Frankfurt, either: yet another little reminder of Sydney in Madrid.

I made the pilgrimage to see Guernica, ended up bumming around behind an offical tour only to end up having tapas with an art-loving DJ from Amiens. Like I say, it's like Sydney. I moved Madrid to No. 2 on my favourite cities list.

Sierra de las Nieves

2009-01-27T16:14:00.000+11:00

Out mountain biking again, descending towards El Burgo. I saw a bunch of wild goats, but was too slow on the camera...

Reflections on Grenada

2009-01-25T15:20:00.001+11:00

Back to the Alhambra. I'd not be the first to note that the Mudejar craftsmanship just totally blows the mind. My favourite architecture? The spaces and their interplay are as finely wrought as the details, really quite sublime. Between this and Japanese shoin-zukuri, fast-forwarding toward the suburban Australian mock-Federation house much has been lost.

Malaga

2009-01-23T15:08:00.000+11:00

Kicking around the Alcazar, enjoying the view and a clear winter's Feuerabend.

Tramping around the Valle del Genal

2009-01-21T14:38:00.003+11:00

Sunlight spills through the January gloom into the Valle del Genal, in the Serranía de Ronda. I think that's the village of Parauta on the left.

Further south, an ancient path marks the route of Neolithic migration from Africa via the narrow crossing at the 'Pillars of Hercules' (now Gibraltar and Jebel Musa) and then turning eastwards along this ridgeline overlooking the Straits.

Can you see it?

The polished rocks materialise as you place each step, but the path remains almost indiscernable unless you're actually taking it. I found it a peculiar and thrilling sensation to walk in such ancient footsteps.

I've been blessed with encountering even more ancient routes in the Australian desert, but with respect to Aboriginal history, somehow the cultural continuity of these people with mine make the place even more resonant for me than those Australian equivalents.

If I was to go 'walkabout' to reconnect with the land, I think it would be here, in mountains like these, so very far from home.

Torre del Oro

2009-01-13T16:01:00.000+11:00

Seville's Tower of Gold, on the Guadalquivir River. The final destination of treasure ships returning from the New World, but extant long before that as the eastern anchoring point for a chain protecting the Almohad city from enemy ships.

Moorish architectural details

2009-01-12T14:19:00.000+11:00

Cathedral of Seville again, this time from outside. Interesting to note the prayer hall and qibla wall of the original mosque can be readily made out. Interesting to contrast Seville with the Mezquita and Cathedral in Cordoba. The Catholic construction is much more successful in the former, achieving grandeur and grace while Cordoba's later effort just smacks of vandalism.

Next door in the Alcazar, a splendid Mudejar dome. I'd love to have one at my place but I suspect it's a bit beyond the typical Australian plasterer.

Cathedral of Seville

2009-01-12T13:54:00.002+11:00

Arcos de la Frontera

2008-12-12T13:51:00.001+11:00

SICAB

2008-11-28T12:14:00.004+11:00

Some moody shots taken around the equestrian fair in Seville.

Seville

2008-11-27T12:06:00.001+11:00

A cool winter's afternoon in central Sevilla.

Potros

2008-11-08T00:20:00.000+11:00

Pure-bred Spanish foals of Ganaderia Cruces Morillo, Serrato Andalucia.

Brussels

2008-10-22T23:31:00.003+11:00

Scratch'n sniff your screen for the aroma of chocolate and waffles...

Averbode Abbey

2008-10-22T23:20:00.003+11:00

The Averbode Abbey was founded in 1134 and is located near Diest in Belgium.

Arnhem and the Netherlands Fruhluchtmuseum

2008-10-22T22:39:00.003+11:00

My visit to North Rhine Westphalia seemed an excellent platform for an expedition over the border into The Netherlands. A stay at Arnhem afforded a visit to the nearby open air museum where historic buildings have been removed to for preservation from their original locations. It was like a pleasant walk in the forest punctuated with architectural curiosities.

North Rhine Westphalia

2008-10-22T04:28:00.005+11:00

Have just spent a couple of days in NRW, The Netherlands and Belgium. This was my first trip to the North Rhine region and it was memorable clad in autumn colours. I took the opportunity to visit some notable Roman locations: the site of the city of Colonia Ulpia Traiana - now the 'Xanten Archaeology Park'; and the battlefield in the Teutoberg forest where the legions of Varus were defeated by the combined indigenous force of his former lieutenant Arminius.

Xanten, although featuring a selection of archaelogical remains and reconstructions, is more of a Roman-themed park than a ruin. The park is impeccably maintained and was a lovely place to wander on a rainy morning.

Historians count the defeat in the depths of the Teutoberg forest as the turning point of Roman northwards expansion and the battle has enjoyed prominent cultural and historical significance in the narrative of German national identity.

The battle, fought over three days, was under continuous rain and in dense, dark forest bordered by swampy moorland. The rout was profound - the Roman 17th, 18th & 19th Legions were destroyed along with auxiliary troops and the column's baggage train. Casualties of 15-20,000 are estimated. While the 'regimental' standards were recovered within six years via a sustained retaliatory campaign, some surviving legionaries captured as prisoners were liberated as long as forty years after the battle. Even by the nightmarish standards of ancient battles - particularly routs - the environment, conditions and presence of the baggage train (which included the families of many soldiers), the circumstances of this battle are particularly appalling.

Arminius' status as a paragon of German identity is itself an interesting history. His combination of tribes into a 'German' alliance was held up in the 19th century as an early expression of a natural national identity; however factual depictions of him are troubled and murky: the key question being whether he is more accurately cast as a great unifier or as an arch betrayer. It is perhaps an example of the distinctive German capacity for dualism that current perspectives leave the question open.

The vexed historical and political figure of Arminius, the story of the battle and the extraordinary archaelogical saga of the search for and discovery of the site are handled adroitly by the battlefield museum near the town of Kalkreise. Prize of the collection is the remarkable piece pictured below, the face-mask of a Roman cavalryman's helmet.

Back to the Sierra de las Nieves

2008-10-22T02:47:00.002+11:00

I made another trip to the national park, this time testing my luck by taking along the camera. Survived the downhill stretch without chest-planting into rocks and/or smashing the camera; definately progress...

Cycling in the Sierra de las Nieves National Park

2008-10-03T08:30:00.005+10:00

I've discovered the path-drawing functionality in GoogleEarth and have resolved to record worthwhile routes as I discover them. I'll also provide feedback on some of the more popular local trails for the benefit of anyone passing through.

First up is a 25km cross-country type circuit in the Sierra de las Nieves National Park. The route starts at the carpark near the bridge in El Burgo, heads west along the El Burgo river, up past the Puerta de fas Mujers and returns via the next valley to the south. It takes me about 2.5hrs. Someone with fitness could churn through it way quicker; whatever, the views and landscape are outstanding.

Alongside the outbound Northern side of the circuit is a walking trail that'd suit the single-track boys. It continues on from near the westernmost point of the circuit and carries on through to Lifa and Ronda. I'm not sure if that section (12-14km I guess) is passable to bikes or not. The rest looks pretty technical but doable.

Córdoba

2008-09-19T00:05:00.004+10:00

All were taken in and around the Mezquita and Juderia...

Corrida Goyesca 2008

2008-09-10T09:56:00.007+10:00

Andalucia.com explains:
[The Feria de Pedro Romero] stems from the inter-relationship of three main personae which spanned over three centuries, all with strong connections to Ronda. They are the famous 18th century bullfighter, Pedro Romero; the extremely influential 18th century Spanish painter, Francisco de la Goya; and finally, the great 20th century bullfighter, Antoñio Ordóñez.

The Corrida Goyesca is the bullfight that marks the culmination of the Feria. The Goyesca is staged in costumes consistent with the period of Goya and Pedro Romero, in honour of those figures.

Headline matador Francisco Rivera Ordoñez (and grandson of the creator of the Feria) before and after the Corrida:

The large horse pictured below is that of a picador, who lances the bull in the first phase of the fight. Note the leg armour worn by the rider...

Horse teams of the Corrida Goyesca

2008-09-10T09:45:00.010+10:00

Horses of the Corrida Goyesca

2008-09-10T09:33:00.002+10:00

More from the Feria

2008-09-10T09:01:00.003+10:00

Fireworks...

Troubling...

Feria Pedro Romero 2008

2008-09-10T08:42:00.003+10:00

It's festival time!

Families get into the spirit by dressing the youngsters in traditional costume...

Zahara de los Atunes

2008-09-10T08:28:00.005+10:00

Jewel of the Costa de la Luz

Fishermen await the tide...

Remains of the Roman town of Acinipo

2008-09-10T08:10:00.004+10:00

The theatre is now home to a flock of sheep...

The view from the western edge of the plateau: wheat has been harvested, next will be the sunflowers...

Gibraltar

2008-08-05T03:39:00.005+10:00

Upper Rock from Europa Point

per request...

Legionario

2008-08-05T02:32:00.006+10:00

A four year old pure-bred Andalusian stallion of Carthusian lineage.

See www.crucesmorillo.com

Birthday sunset

2008-08-01T03:57:00.004+10:00

...as the sun sinks behind the Serrania...

Random London shots

2008-08-01T03:49:00.003+10:00

Not much time for sightseeing the last couple of times around...

Cambridge

2008-08-01T03:47:00.001+10:00

Kings College, Cambridge. Tourist taking photo of tourist taking photos of tourists!

Long time no updates...

2008-08-01T03:36:00.005+10:00

From Spain to Germany to Spain to England to Germany to Spain etc etc... But time enough to relax for an afternoon in the Generalife: the gardens at the Al'hambra.

Ronda

2008-06-10T08:34:00.004+10:00

Italica Ampitheatre

2008-06-10T08:29:00.002+10:00

Near Seville. Commissioned by Emperor Hadrian for his hometown and included as a matching set to the photos from his villa near Tivoli (see 2006 posts).

Big birds...

2008-06-10T08:21:00.004+10:00

I may stand to be corrected as I am a) no ornithologist and b) was totally lost. Nonetheless I think they're condors and I think I was in Andalucia. Spain, mountains, birds: this much I know for sure. Wingspan maybe 1.6=1.8m.

Arriate

2008-06-10T08:17:00.003+10:00

Evening walk North of the village, looking over the Serrania de Ronda.

"Go into the light..."

2008-06-10T08:11:00.003+10:00

Climbing around Villefrance/Fort Liberia in the Confluent while following the Route Orientales (Pyrenees).

Somewhere beneath Andorra

2008-06-10T08:08:00.000+10:00

Paris

2008-06-10T08:03:00.003+10:00

Louvre
Morning walk

Andalucia

2008-04-15T04:02:00.002+10:00

Recently made an expedition to Spain, enjoyed a couple of days R&R on a horse farm near Ronda.

Cold snap in Hessen

2008-04-15T03:57:00.002+10:00

Around Feldberg...

Burg Frankenstein from the cemetery

2008-02-24T08:54:00.003+11:00

ok, it's not from the cemetery. There is no cemetery.

Bamberg, Bavaria

2008-02-24T08:24:00.004+11:00

Taunus on a winter's afternoon...

2008-02-24T08:18:00.003+11:00

Burg Eltz

2008-02-13T00:59:00.000+11:00

Around Taunus

2008-02-09T11:02:00.000+11:00

Frankfurter Stadtwald

2008-02-09T04:42:00.001+11:00

More sunsets (Sydney vs Rothenburg)

2008-02-09T04:31:00.000+11:00

From whence to hence...

2008-02-09T02:35:00.000+11:00

A long time between drinks...

2008-02-08T02:17:00.000+11:00

Last post... September 8, 2007. A LOT has happened since then: your correspondent has relocated from the Elysian Fields of Eastern Sydney to the monochrome half-light of a German winter. Belated best wishes for the New Year etc...

Sunset at Barrenjoey

2007-09-02T01:44:00.000+10:00

...not another one?!

2007-09-02T01:39:00.000+10:00

An extra-long weekend in Tasmania

2007-09-02T01:10:00.003+10:00

Bronte evening

2007-09-02T00:22:00.000+10:00

Watching the world go past

2007-09-02T00:15:00.000+10:00

Bondi in B&W

2007-09-01T23:51:00.000+10:00

Ah jeez, ages since my last post.

A weekend at Smoky Cape

2007-05-13T13:55:00.000+10:00

Party at the Odessa

2007-05-13T13:36:00.000+10:00

Sydney Royal Easter Show

2007-05-13T13:06:00.000+10:00

The country comes to the city for Sydney's annual fair...

A Day At The Races...

2007-04-01T20:39:00.000+10:00

Thanks to Forensics in the 'Slipper & Mr. Ubiquitous in Race 9.

On the road...

2007-03-17T17:11:00.000+11:00

Work commitments carried me down to Hobart, where I finished my day with a walk around the docks.

Like a...err... dackel to water

2007-03-17T16:35:00.000+11:00

Big ship

2007-03-17T16:04:00.000+11:00

Tropfest 2007

2007-02-19T00:42:00.000+11:00

With compliments to Christoso...

2007-02-19T00:35:00.000+11:00

Picked up some exciting new kit: a Leica Digilux 3. First shot was out of the office window...

Landmarks by night

Senor Gomez

Bondi sunset

2007-02-19T00:33:00.000+11:00

Came home to find Mel had shot a sequence of Bondi glowing beneath a golden sunset.

Snowy Mountains

2007-02-19T00:19:00.000+11:00

Taken in and around Tumut, in the Snowy's. The countryside, in the grip of drought, was as dry as I've seen it.

Married on the sand...

2007-02-19T00:07:00.000+11:00

January 6 saw friends Robert & Andrea renew their vows on a beach south of Sydney. I snapped a few photos on the ferry to-and-from, and at the party afterwards.

Stefan & Smint
Bride & flower girls

Hola, Senor Gomez!

2006-12-19T13:02:00.000+11:00

New addition to the family. For better or worse, the photo fails to capture the reality of Loki incarnate.
Senor Gomez demonstrating his "feed me" gaze for the camera:
At repose, note distended belly.

Brooksy's 'Goodbye-Brooksy' Bowls Day

2006-12-19T12:10:00.000+11:00

I post these gleefully anticipating the consternation they will cause our Continental readers; who's respective communities have yet to develop the cultural refinement that is Bare-foot Bowls. In fact, I don't remember any evidence that lawn bowls featured much at all, which may explain the Oceanic dominance of the international (bowls) scene.

With beers in hand, our minds were filled with white-hatted (and geriatric) traditionalism; not the pyjama-wearing, artificially-grassed, mutant-child that is contemporary lawn bowls.

GBG rising to the follow-through. Textbook.

Case looks on intently with beer in hand. Also textbook.

Count them, yes, count them. That is a six-shot end.

Scoreboard. Teams were divided along gender lines and, although the above end exagerrates things a bit, it's fair to say that scoring was a bit one-sided...

This piece of propaganda sits in the centre of the greens at Clovelly Bowling Club. What it says to me is "There's no point running...".

Thanks to the CBC and good luck to the Brooksman & Tara-T.

thuck thuck thuck thuck thuck thuck thuck

2006-12-19T11:51:00.000+11:00

Bondi... Shit. I can't believe I'm still in Bondi. Every time I think I'm gonna wake up back on the road.

Better get on THE PROGRAM before the walls really do move in tighter...

Started working on a book of photo's and recipes from the travels, partly because it's a totally cool thing to do and partly to prevent WoW from consuming my soul.

Now motivated to work after test driving my next camera: Lumix DMC-L1 AKA Leica Digilux 3 ... as I will need a job to pay for it (particularly if it wears the latter brand).

Back in Oz, and posting again at last!

2006-12-19T11:39:00.000+11:00

Apartment (check). Utilities (check). Broadband (check). Resume (check). Storage unpacked (check). Motorcycle returned (check). Cameras repaired (check). Slide night (check). World of Warcraft installed (check). Job (...).

Well, some exercises are worth delaying... 8^)

ps: I love my mac.

EU Tour 2006 draws to a close... but one last sortie

2006-10-01T01:45:00.000+10:00

Next time I post it will be from Sydney.

I thought that I would conclude the tour with one last sortie from Frankfurt to France - the Somme Valley, Villers-Bretonneux and the final resting place of my great-grandfather Mark.

Increasingly, my journey has led me to a much greater appreciation that culture, curiosity and disposition can and should determine affiliation to a much greater extent than distance. This appreciation is woven with a sense that, in a world of geographically-dispersed affiliations, the concept of 'family' and the storytelling that constitutes 'history'; become critical tools of good.

Manifest of this is the quiet comfort to be had hanging with the father of my father's father.

In my mind I see a circle closed, then squared, then pivoted to form a portal. I pause, smile, and step on through...

Schwarzwald: Germany's beautiful Black Forest

2006-10-01T01:39:00.000+10:00

I made a slideshow, you can find it on my .mac Videos page by following the link at right.

I think this might be the most appealing weekend riding location I've ever seen... man, there are Beemers EVERYWHERE down there.

Volklingen Steel Works

2006-10-01T01:27:00.000+10:00

Back in Germany, rested and (well and truly) fed, the desire to take pictures started to return. I made a photographer's pilgrimage in pursuit of geometry, light and shadow to the derelict Volklingen iron works near Germany's border with Luxembourg. It is a very unusual UNESCO World Heritage site which brought memories of my days at the smelter in Tasmania crashing back to me. Man, who was that guy? :-)

Trouble in Lyon...

2006-10-01T01:05:00.000+10:00

From Lyon, we did a cannonball run northwards. Toledo ("Holy Toledo, Batman!") and Zaragoza were stop overs. Each is a medieval town of delightful grace. Toledo's old town surmounts a steeply fortified hill top, and accordingly is isolated, torturous and totally charming.

Zaragoza, whilst having a sprawling new town, also retains some remarkable fortifications. It is also on the road to Andorra and some of the best motorcycling roads in the Pyrenees. Unfortunately, you will have to wait for the video!

Through Andorra and our first stop in France was Toulouse. Another university town, but surrounded in a landscape of great appeal.

In coming to Europe, France was the country that I had the greatest sense of anticipation in visiting. Toulouse returned the enthusiasms with some seriously, seriously good food.

Then trouble struck. Just short of Lyon I heard a bang and pulled over to discover my rear wheel bearing had failed. Not an unreasonable failure given some months of maximum payload bowling down potholed Mediterranean roads. Not to worry, Lyon had a Ducati shop; all I needed was to wait three days for it to open again...

Lyon as it's turns out, has an outstanding shopping district. But not necessarily an outstanding population. From accounts, a group of youfs spotted the Steel Princess and attempted to steal her. On discovering my chain was going to resist everything short of war, they instead decided that what she needed was a good kicking. I returned to find her hemorrhaging petrol and small pieces of alloy and plastic into the French cobblestones.

The guys at Ducati Lyon, though, were legends. Within a day I was back on the road with new bearings, tyres, levers, indicators. The guys had even managed to produce a front disk to replace the one warped in the attack (at one stage, the head mechanic contemplating a last resort option of giving me one off his personal machine).

Seville

2006-10-01T00:44:00.000+10:00

Seville is a truly enchanting city. It has qualities that are both reflective and highly evocative of it's Occidental, Arabic and Moorish waves of government. But, like other areas of Spain, combines these influences with a stylish modernity with an ease and lack of self-consciousness that was unusual amongst the few places in Europe I'd seen to that point.

It's also a university town, and so has the vigor, creative outlets and vibrant scene associated with such.

The attraction is a challenge to articulate. It simply feels like a diverse, colourful, relaxed place to be.

Like I mentioned below, I was doing more wandering than shooting... I intend to go back. I snapped a couple of the examples of Moorish architecture (I'd had pangs because, running short on time, had been forced to drop Grenada and Al Hambra off the schedule, such as it ever is).

My favourite place was a tapas bar in the old town. It was decorated with chest-high tiling in the Islamic style, with darkly stained wooden paneling above and old farming and equestrian implements completing the look (not counting the forest of stalactite serana hams suspended from the ceiling behind the bar. The tapas were numerous, sophisticated and deliciously fresh. They played great music and the crowd was friendly and quite obviously a cross section of locals hanging out at their preferred. Magic.

Offline and incognito...

2006-10-01T00:13:00.000+10:00

Ok, it's true I've neglected the site. I account for this neglect as a result of total and profound fatigue post-Sahara; and romantic distraction.

My journey, at least on the Steel Princess, now draws to a close. I make these last few posts from Frankfurt while my much-loved machine makes her way back to Sydney.

We'll address that later, though. First up, I have to tell you about possibly my favourite city from the expedition: Seville.

To close the gaps in the narrative; though: from the desert we headed North, initially to Zagora, then Er Rachidia and then Meknes where in each case the focus was on rehydration at a hotel with pool. Through the four-five days of this segment I was in full recovery mode: I have little recollection of how time was spent.

With coherence returning, we made tracks to Spain. First Chefchaouen, then a ferry via Tanger and then on into Seville. Chefchaouen-Seville (some 700kms) plus crossing was completed in one day. It was time to get out of Maroc.

To give some indication, I would estimate that the desert peeled off maybe 6-8 kgs. More than that, it dessicated the skin - while I avoided serious sun burn (although I had a constant wind burn, topped up each day by the afternoon breezes in 50+ degree heat), the skin appeared to lose much of it's oil and became cracked and itchy on the parts exposed to the atmosphere (face, hands, arms). It took some time to recover.

The desert also had a profound impact on the temperament. I found that my pattern of thinking: expectations, concerns, even creative lines, were 'hard-booted' and substantially changed by the experience. It was an extremely holistic de-tox.

Evidence photography. Daytime sunlight was too intense for taking pictures. Even with UV & ND filters images were extremely difficult to expose satisfactorily. With two days of sandstorm I was surprised that the cameras survived at all. Nonetheless, I pretty much left them in the bag for almost a month after.

All up, I'm not sure it's an experience that I can recommend. Don't get me wrong, though - I'm not talking about the Sahara in general. On the contrary: go there, see it, but just don't go in high summer.

Unless, like me, intuition tells you that it's a journey you should make...